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VERIFIED CONTENTAuthor: Dominika Wilk

Cosmetic allergy appears more and more often. This is due to the increased amount of preservatives and fragrances that are added to them, as well as often individual hypersensitivity to a specific component of the cosmetic product. To find out which substance sensitizes you, you should carefully observe the skin reaction after using the cosmetic, as well as go to patch skin tests, which will allow you to track the harmful allergen.

Why do cosmetics cause allergies?

Although there are strict directives as to what substances can be used in the production of cosmetics, there are ingredients that must be used in cosmetics and which, in turn, may contribute to skin allergies. We are talking about preservatives that protect cosmetic products against spoilage and the growth of bacteria.

Another group of allergenic ingredients are fragrances, which, while they do not have to be used in creams, cannot be omitted in deodorants and perfumes. There are also coloring ingredients that are used in the production of eye shadows or mascara, necessary to give cosmetics a specific color, and which may cause a greater or lesser contact allergy.

How do allergens from cosmetics penetrate the skin?

The penetration of cosmetics ingredients through the skin takes place in different ways. They can penetrate the stratum corneum and penetrate the intercellular spaces or the cells themselves. They also penetrate the sebaceous and sweat glands and hair follicles.

How quickly a given substance penetrates the skin depends on its concentration, as well as the carriers contained in the cosmetic. The strength of the action, in turn, depends (apart from the concentration) on the area of ​​the skin on which the cosmetic product is spread.

It is known that the body lotion with which we apply ourselves from the feet to the neck will have a more powerful effect than the hand cream rubbed into the hands.

The weakened protective barrier of the skin is an individual factor that will increase the unfavorable effect of the cosmetic and its greater penetration through the skin layer. This is why people forced to frequently wash off the lipid coat, e.g. beauticians, hairdressers, are more prone to allergies.due to the use of cosmetics than people who have a tight skin barrier.

People with a predisposition to atopic dermatitis who show epidermal dysfunction due to the lack of a protein called filaggrin will more often experience the adverse effects of irritating substances found in cosmetic products, such as fragrances.

Preservatives - substances that sensitize

Preservatives are used in cosmetics to inhibit the growth of microorganisms, molds or fungi, and thus extend the life of the product and maintain all its quality values ​​until the indicated expiry date. In order for a given preservative to be approved for use, it must not:

  • have toxic effects,
  • absorbed through the skin or mucous membranes,
  • be used in too high a concentration (a safe preservative is one that works in low concentration),
  • have a limited field of activity (it is best to act against various microorganisms, both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, fungi, without disturbing the natural microflora of the skin),
  • show instability (must remain stable at different temperatures and pH).

A well-functioning preservative is one that dissolves well in water, and at the same time does not interact with other ingredients of the cosmetic. Its advantage is also the lack of smell and color.

Currently, in Poland, 56 preservatives are allowed for use in cosmetics, but due to the fact that some items hide chemical compounds, including s alts or esters, there are many more of these preservatives. Besides, the list does not include natural preservatives such as alcohol or essential oils.

The 2005 ordinance includes, in addition to the list of preservatives, guidelines as to the percentages in which they may be present. They start from a fraction of% to as much as 2%. There is also information which preservatives may appear, for example, in cosmetics for children, which cannot be included in rinse-off products, and which are prohibited for use in aerosols.

While not all preservatives may cause allergic reactions, some preservatives tend to do so. The potential allergens among preservatives include:

  • parabens,
  • Formalin,
  • Thiomersal,
  • Kathon CG,
  • Euxyl K 400.

Fragrances in cosmetics - why do you need to be careful about them?

It is estimated that 1-16% of people are hypersensitive tofragrances and contact with them end in hives, allergic eczema, itching, or a phototoxic reaction. The most common places where allergies occur are: the skin of the face, neck, hands and armpits.

The perfumery industry uses over 300 aromas, and everyday cosmetics can contain from 100 to 300 of these compounds. Of course, most of them will be perfumes, colognes, toilet waters or aftershaves. In addition, they can be found in bath lotions, shower lotions, soaps, shampoos, toothpaste or mouthwash. They are also found in some lipsticks.

The fragrances most often responsible for allergic reactions are:

  • cinnamaldehyde,
  • isoeugenol,
  • hydroxycytronellal,
  • eugenol,
  • isoeugenol,
  • geraniol,
  • rose oil,
  • geranium oil,
  • oakmoss absolute.

A big problem in tracing allergenic fragrances contained in cosmetics is that manufacturers are not required to include individual fragrance names on the label. They can label them collectively: "Parfum", "Aroma" or "Fragrance".

However, in the case of 26 fragrances, which particularly often cause allergic reactions, the manufacturer is obliged to mark them in the composition if they exceed the concentration of 0.001% in cosmetic products remaining on the skin, as well as if they are higher than 0.01 % in rinse-off products.

Other allergenic ingredients used in cosmetics

Chrome

Chromium is very often the cause of contact allergies, especially delayed ones, which are manifested as contact eczema (ACD). Contact eczema is usually a reaction to the hapten (not the entire antigen), which penetrates deep into the skin and reacts with the nucleophilic chains of the protein and only then leads to the formation of the antigen.

When it comes to the above-mentioned process, an exudative papule may appear on the skin that turns into a tiny blister. Later, it will turn into erosions and lead to the formation of erythematous-exudative foci. These types of changes may include the eyelids, spaces between the fingers, bends of e.g. wrists or the backs of the hands.

Chromium compounds most often appear in cosmetics as a green dye, which is used in the production of eye shadows, as well as soaps and mascara. It is difficult to trace its presence in the composition of a cosmetic product, as it appears on the labels under various markings:

  • CI 77288(Chromium Oxide Greens) - chrome green, chromium (III) oxide, Cr2O3
  • CI 77289 (Chromium Hydroxide Green) - chromium (III) hydroxide, chrome green,
  • CI 15685 (Acid Red 184, Chromate (1-), hydroxy (2- (hydroxy) -3 - ((hydroxy) -1-naphtalenyl) azo-5-nitrobenzenesulfonato (3)) - sodium)
  • CI18690 -Hydrogen bis [2 - [(4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-5-oxo-1-phenyl-1H-pyrazol-4-yl) azo] benzoato (2 -)] chromate ( 1 -)
  • CI 18736 - Disodium hydrogen bis [5-chloro-3 - [(4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-5-oxo-1-phenyl-1H-pyrazol-4-yl) azo] -2 -hydroxybenzenesulphonato (3 -)] chromate (3 -).

Filters

Filters found in cosmetics are designed to protect the skin against the harmful effects of sunlight, e.g. redness, skin irritation, and in the long term: photoaging of the skin or skin cancer.

Cosmetic products can contain both physical and chemical filters. The former reflect light or make the sun's rays diffuse. The latter - chemical ones, can absorb the sun's rays.

Physical filters used in cosmetic preparations are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Their downside is that they dye white ( although recently manufacturers have managed to minimize this effect). On the other hand, the advantageous aspect of their use is that they do not penetrate deep into the skin, which makes them safe and does not cause allergic reactions.

Chemical filters, unlike physical filters, can already cause irritation. The once popular paraaminobenzoic acid (PABA) caused so many photoallergic and phototoxic reactions that it was withdrawn from the market in 2009. In turn, the p-methoxycinnamic acid derivatives used in the production of color cosmetics or sunscreen preparations, which are currently used, may cause slight irritation. Wide-range filters, protecting against both UVA and UVB rays, such as benzophenones: Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, usually cause allergic and photoallergic reactions after exposure to sunlight.

Allergic skin irritation is not the only side effect of the filters, some of them, such as 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, are highly estrogenic and may pass into the milk of nursing mothers, causing undesirable effects on both the woman and her baby.

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Category:

Dermatology