On clear summer days it is crowded here. A canoe in a canoe, a paddle in an oar. Shouts can be heard above the water, traffic jams are forming on the portals. It gets quiet out of season. Everything seems to put to sleep, although it does not cease to be beautiful. Accommodation is cheaper, bars by the water are empty. Mushrooms grow in the forests.
Krutynia is considered to be one of the most beautiful lowland trails in Europe. It is 102 km long, and its diversity exceeds other canoeing routes. Halfway through the Krutynia riverbed, half through the lakes connected by it. It twirls and winds among forests, moraine hills and meadows. In keeping with the old Prussian (Prussian, not Prussian) name. "Krutynia" means a swift and winding river. However, no exaggeration. Even beginners will find it easy to overcome the tourist canoe trail.
For a week or a day
The route starts at Lake Warpuńskie (north-west from Mrągowo), but you can start your trip in practically every town. Most often, kayakers choose Sorkwity to start, because the earlier section is considered to be relatively difficult. The trail runs through the Gielądzkie, Lampackie, Biale, Zyzdrój Wlk. And Mokre lakes. And a few smaller ones along the way. The longest "river" section of the trail connects the Krutyńskie and Bełdany lakes. The route ends in Ruciane-Nida, but we can extend it by going to the Great Lakes or Pisa waterways.
You need to book about a week for an escapade to the Krutynia waterway. Of course, you can plan shorter sections or rent a kayak for one day. There is no problem with that, there are rentals in all major towns.
With nature
The river crosses the Pisz Primeval Forest with meanders. Old oaks and tall pines grow on the banks, and in the Królewska Sosna reserve we will see the oldest of them in the lake district - unfortunately already dry. The red algae that grows on the stones create "bloody stains" on them. With a bit of luck, we will see a white-tailed eagle circling above us, and cormorants live on the islands of Lake Warpuńskie. It is also worth visiting the Zakręt reserve - with its swampy lakes and floating islands.
Front to the client
Krutynia is a very commercialized river. Its fame has attracted tourists here. So all towns are prepared to receive the client. There are riverside hostels, rooms for rent in all towns (Sorkwity, Babięta, Spychowo, Zgon, Krutyń,Ukta et al). There are camping sites, and the more developed and almost wild ones. But be careful. The season lasts here from May to October, but the peak of tourist traffic on the trail is, of course, during the summer holidays. The further away from them, the drier everything becomes, and in the off-season it is difficult to find an open pub or even a place to stay.
What to see
The most famous monument on the route - it is worth stopping here - is the former Philiponi (Old Believers) Monastery in Wojnowo. Now it's a private guesthouse, but open to sightseeing. The monastery complex was built in the mid-nineteenth century by Old Believers who came from Russia, i.e. the followers of the Orthodox Church, who did not accept the reform of the church carried out by the patriarch Nikon. In the temple, we will see old photos from the former Wojnowo, and in the nave of the icons. Further on, in the village, there is a wooden church that is looked after by Filiponki. It is worth listening to the stories of the young sister about the monastic life.
The second longer stop is worth taking in Ukta and then going on a trip to the Pranie forester's lodge, where Konstatnty Ildefons Gałczyński liked to visit. And then - in the footsteps of another writer - to the Melchior Wańkowicz. His vacation on the Krutynia resulted in the novel "Na tropach Smętka"